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Leather Care - Glossary of Terms:

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Aniline Dyed – Leather that has been dyed throughout by immersion in a dye-bath and has not received any coating of pigmented finish.
This form of transparent dye penetrates the hide with color.

Buffing – Leather which has been smoothed by mechanical abrasion to minimize surface blemishes, such as healed scars.

Chromium Tanning – Upholstery leather which has been tanned with chromium salts. This method makes the hide flexible and supple.

Corrected Grain Leather – Leather from which the grain layer has been partially removed by buffing and upon which a new surface has been created by various finishes (e.g. embossing).

Crocking – The rubbing off of surface substances or color onto another material.

Crust – Leather that has been tanned, dyed, and dried – but not finished.

Distressed – Process used to create an effect resembling a worn look or an aged appearance. Techniques used to create this effect include tumbling the hides with abrasive items in order to scratch the leather’s surface.

Drum Dyed – Leather is immersed in a drum with dyes and tumbled to insure complete color absorption.

Embossing – Process of printing leather with a raised pattern either imitating or resembling an animal grain pattern. A unique pattern may be embossed on the leather that is unrelated to the natural grain pattern. Leathers are pressed with an embossing plate under heat and pressure to either lay out the grain as smoothly as possible or to impart a textured effect. Embossing may also be done to disguise defects or blemishes.

Fat Liquoring – Process of replacing oils that have been depleted from the hide during the tanning process.

Fat Wrinkle – Natural wrinkles in the leather’s grain that are unique to each hide. Normally visible only in full grain leathers. Common around the neck, belly, and shoulder areas of the hide.

Finishing – Any process performed after the initial dyeing stage such as buffing, embossing, milling, spraying, etc. These leathers are treated with a topcoat substance to help provide abrasion and stain resistance. These substances can be lacquers, varnishes, polymers, or enamels. The finishing substance may also include additional pigments and/or dyes.

Full Grain – Leather which has not been buffed or abraded retaining all natural markings and characteristics.

Glazed – Leather treated with a top coat containing not only gloss, but also protection.

Gloss Finish – Higher shine/sheen level finish usually with enhanced texture added.

Grain – Pattern characterized by the pores and peculiar to the animal concerned, visible on the outer surface of a hide after the hair has been removed.

Hand – Term describing the leather’s degree of softness and feel as well as the reaction of the sense of touch when leather is held in the hand.

Hand Antiqued – Hand application of a darker color over a lighter color creating a dramatic highlight.

Hide – The whole or entire skin of a larger animal, usually cattle, for upholstery leather.

Leather – A hide or skin that has been tanned into a non-perishable material.

Matte Finish – Low gloss finish usually with enhanced texture added.

Micropigment – Coloring of the hide by using a coating which contains clear, transparent pigments. This coating can also be accompanied by a thin layer of opaque pigmentation creating a more uniform shade.

Milling/Tumbling – Process in which tanned hides are placed in drums with heat and water and tumbled to create a desired softness or effect.

Naked Leather – Tanned, aniline dyed leather that has no protective top coat. Commonly referred to as pure aniline.

Natural Grain – Leather whose grain has not been altered in any way. The natural appearance of the grain is predominant showing visibly healed scars, fat wrinkles, insect bites, etc.

Nubuck – Top grain, aniline dyed leather that has been buffed to create a “suede like” nap effect.

Patina – Surface luster that develops on Pure Aniline Leathers and Nubuck Leathers which grows more beautiful with use and the passing of time.

Pigment Finish – Coloring of the hide by using a coating which contains pigments and other opaque materials. This finish creates a more uniform shade and an increased resistance to fading.

Pull-Up – Leather that derives its look and some colorations from dyes, waxes, and/or oils. When the leather is pulled during upholstering, the oils in the leather cause the color to migrate and become lighter.

Pure Aniline – Leather that is aniline dyed and exhibits natural markings and characteristics because the grain has not been altered in any way.

Sauvage / Kela – Two-toned effect in which a darker color is applied over a lighter color. This effect can be created during the finishing process either with a roller or spray equipment, or by hand. Similar to faux finishes on walls.

Semi-Aniline – Leather that has been aniline dyed throughout then protected by a clear or pigmented finish coating thus creating a more consistent color than pure aniline leathers. Natural markings may be visible with semi-aniline leathers.

Split Grain – The underneath layer of a hide which has been “split” off when the top grain is separated. If finished, the split is heavily embossed and surfaced treated.

Suede – Leather produced from the underneath layer/lower split of a hide possessing a velvet-like nap effect. Suedes do not have the same durable characteristics as top grain leathers.

Tanning – Process using tanning agents to convert a raw hide into a stable, non-perishable material. Tanning strips the hide of indigenous color making it receptive to color dyes.

Top Grain – Top part of the skin or hide. The grain may be either Full Grain or Embossed Grain. The Top Grain of the hide is stronger and more flexible.

Vegetable Tanning – Leather which has been processed by using tannins obtained from bark, wood, or other parts of plants and trees. Although this tanning process adds to the toughness of leather, it also limits the stretching of the leather. Vegetable tanned leathers are used more commonly manufacturing shoes, bridles, handbags, etc.

Wet Blue – Refers to the “blue” color and appearance created by the chromium tanning process.

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